ALL SALES ARE FINAL

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NO DEPOSITS BEFORE KIDS ARE BORN

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Kids can be reserved AFTER birth for a NON-REFUNDABLE $50 deposit, or paid in full. Cash, check, Venmo, or Cash App are accepted for deposits only. ANY FINAL PAYMENT MUST BE IN CASH before the kid leaves our farm. If you live a good distance from us and would like to send the deposit by mail. Checks should be made to Courtney Doss. 

Just contact us and we can make the arrangements.  Babies must be picked up on the agreed upon date, or the new owner could be charged a weekly boarding fee.  Pick up times are arranged prior to pick-up on the agreed upon date.  PLEASE BE CONSIDERATE OF MY TIME, SHOW UP ON TIME!

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NOTE:  We do have a waiting list.  When babies are born, we go through the waiting list first, and the remaining kids will be advertised at a first come, first serve basis.  If you would like to be added to the waiting list, please send me an email with what exactly you are looking for, your contact phone number and email address.

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IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO VISIT THE FARM, PLEASE CALL AND SCHEDULE A TIME.

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DUE TO RISING FEED COSTS, WE ARE FORCED TO INCREASE OUR PRICES.

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PRICING:

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BUCKLINGS:

Non-Registered Bucklings: $200 - $225

Registered Bucklings:  $350  (Rare, until we get more registered stock)

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DOELINGS:

Non-Registered Doelings: $225 - $250

Registered Doelings:  $400    (Rare, until we get more registered stock)

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Neutered males make better pets than females.

REASONS

1:  Females start their heat cycle at about 7-8 months of age. This will last about 18 hours and if not bred, she will cycle every 21 days. During this time, some females get quite noisy and their personality/attitude can change.

2:  Un-neutered males can absolutely stink. They pee on themselves and have other nasty habits. They also can sometimes grow a little aggressive with age. Intact males make great breeders but not very good pets.

3:  Neutered males make the best pets. They don't have any of these nasty male issues and they have a leveler personality/attitude than a female.

  

Disbudding

Some of our kids will be born naturally polled (no horns), but some will be born with horns.  We do not de-horn (disbud) our babies. The process is far too gruesome for us, and we think goats need their horns. The horn tips can be trimmed and smoothed rather than an altogether removal.

 

Milking

We do not milk our goats. Therefore we can't give you milk volumes or production numbers from an individual goat. Any Nigerian Dwarf will give about 1/2 gallon of milk per day at peak, some will give more.

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Registration

We have both registered and non-registered adults. So we can offer some babies that are registerable and some that are not.  We just bought two registered does, so registered goats are rare until they get added to the breeding program..

  

Crying

Your new kid WILL cry. It is in a new place, it misses mom, and it doesn’t know you well yet. Some kids will cry themselves hoarse. Attention and cuddling/rubbing will help alleviate the crying. Kids will cry less if they have a companion kid with them. Sometimes, for a single kid, some sort of small stuffed animal or a pillow in it's quarters will calm them. 

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Bonding

Kids need attention! Especially during the first 2 weeks that you have it. Whether your kid is bottle feeding or raised by it’s mom, it now needs your attention. It is best to keep your kid in a small enclosure for the first week or so until it bonds with you. A 10ft x10ft chain link dog lot works well. This will minimize the need to chase the kid to interact with it. Working with it in close quarters will minimize stress and speed the bonding process. Talk to it so it can learn your voice. Goats can learn their names. The more you talk to it, the calmer it will be. Rub you kid on the body, face, and neck. Don’t rub your kid between the ears and eyes, or in the horn area. This will cause the goat to develop pushing issues which can lead to butting. STAY CALM!  Don’t rush towards your kid or move suddenly as this will cause it to run and be nervous. Playing rough with your goat will cause aggressiveness. Stress will cause a goat lots of sickness and vet bills.

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GOAT INFORMATION

Caring for your kid properly is simple, but there are a few things you will need to be mindful of. The information that we give you here is intended to help you build a good relationship with your kid and to help you keep it healthy and happy. There are a lot of goat sites and information on the internet that you can read up on. We are just giving you the basics.

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Health Care

Find a veterinarian that has worked with goats. You will need a vet sooner or later.  You might choose to take your goat to the vet semi-annually for maintenance or you might choose to do the routine health care yourself.

 

Worming

You will need to do a worming treatment in the spring and fall (April and September).  Ivermectin (injectable for cattle and swine) 2cc per 50lbs, squirted into the mouth works great.  We also feed a medicated goat feed that has dewormer included. All goats will have some worms. Nothing will immune the goat. The treatment is to keep the worms at a manageable level so they don’t impair the goats health.  While you are doing their worming treatment, this is also a good time to check and trim their hooves. You can find good examples of how to do this on YouTube.  

 

Vaccinations & Medications

We make every effort to keep our adult goats healthy and up to date on necessary medications. We usually don't give the kids medications unless absolutely necessary. They will generally get their needed immunity from their mom's milk.

There are many vaccines, shots and tests that are available for goats; rabies, cd&t, etc.. Your vet might recommend some of these. We hold to the “minimal medicine” approach. We feel that a lot of the vaccines and shots are unnecessary. We only medicate when we see a need for it. You decide what is best for your kid/goat.

Get a small bottle of antibiotic (LA-200 works well) and some small needles. If your goat gets a cold or fever it’s good to have on hand until you can get to the vet.

Most of the medical supplies that you "might" need and the feed and tools can be found at Tractor Supply, Southern States, or online at www.valleyvet.com or www.jefferspet.com.

 Loose, runny bowels are generally a sign of illness. It could be that your goat has eaten something bad, or it could be a coccidia outbreak (too many protozoa parasites) usually brought on by stress.  All of these are treatable. It might involve a vet visit for a stool sample and fecal count. (If treating coccidia, request 12.5% "Di-Methox" instead of "Corid"). Prolonged loose, runny bowels will cause dehydration, especially in kids. Dehydration can kill! If you goat has diarrhea, 5-10cc of pepto-bismol will generally tighten the bowel back up temporarily, but you'll still need to find the reason for the diarrhea and treat that.

Minimize the stress your goat encounters as much as possible. It will be happier, healthier, and get sick less often.

 

It is always a good idea to have a bottle of Fortified Complex Vitamin B around.  If a goat goes off their feed (or is not getting enough roughage), it will cause the rumen to not function properly.  This can lead to a Vitamin B/Thiamine deficiency and can be deadly.  Watch for signs and administer a Vitamin B/Thiamine shot sub-q as soon as possible.  Minutes/Hours could mean life or death for your goat.  Read the dosage directions on the bottle.  

 

Diet

Goats like a “stable and consistent” diet. They need greenery and roughage and water. They like weeds, vines, leaves, mushrooms, acorns, grass, tree bark and hay. As roughage, normal (horse quality) grass hay is just fine for goats. Alfalfa hay is more costly and can sometimes cause digestive and/or urinary issues if not fed correctly. Molded hay can cause serious health problems (Lysteria) to goats.

Feeding grain or goat pellets is not absolutely necessary, but it will usually help them gain weight and gain some nutrients that they might be missing on normal pasture. About 2 cups of grain/pellets per goat, per day, is plenty.  When feeding anything (hay and/or grain), make sure to keep a 2:1 ratio of Calcium and Phosphorous.  This will help with preventing urinary stones.  Caution to feeding goats products  containing molasses such as "horse feed" or "sweet feed". Sometimes it can cause a vitamin B deficiency  and endanger the goat. Whatever you decide to feed, be consistent. If you change something you are feeding, do it gradually. Contrary to fairy tales, a goats digestive system can be very sensitive and abrupt changes can be stressful.

 

Minerals

 It is good to have a mineral salt block for them to lick as they please. This will supplement what they might be missing from normal pasture.  Goats tend to like loose mineral salt better than salt blocks, so we have mineral holders in their shed.  We use the dual holder and put loose minerals on one side and baking soda in the other.

 

Treats

It also is good to find a treat that they like and use it as a reward or bonding help. Different goats will like different things and might not be open to eating something new the first time or two that it is offered. Some suggestions are: bread, apple pieces, banana pieces (skin and all), potato skins, grapes, or garden vegetables.  Our goats love animal crackers, yes - you heard that right, the cheap cookies you can find at the grocery store.

 

Things to Avoid

There are several plants that can be poison or toxic to goats when eaten. These include but are not limited to, molded hay, wild cherry, Japanese maple, boxwood, rhododendron, laurel, holly, tomato plants, potato plants, daffodils and azaleas.  Remove these from the area your goats will be, or restrict them from the area where these plants are. If they do ingest these, and exhibit strange behavior, force feed them a mixture of ground up charcoal (without added lighter fluid) and vegetable oil, and get them to your vet. Sometimes a goat can eat a small amount of these plants and not be bothered.

 

Housing and Protection

Goats are natural outside animals. They handle the cold and heat without assistance. However they HATE getting wet. So at a minimum they need a shelter to get out of the rain. It is best to have a 3 sided shelter so they can also have a wind block. Do not completely close in the shelter as this will cause dust congestion. It is best if they have access to some shade.

Some folks do raise goats inside of their home. They can be litter box trained or trained to do their business outside. We even know of one goat that was trained to use the toilet, but goats normally live outside.

 

Fencing

Keep in mind that the pasture/yard fencing that you choose has a dual purpose. Not only does it need to keep the goat in, it also needs to keep the predators, such as dogs and coyotes, out. A 4ft high chain link or woven field wire is best. Gates should open inward to prevent goats from pushing the gate open. Electric fencing is good as an addition, but insufficient by itself.  There is an old saying "If you can pour water through it, a goat can get out of it".  It is not that bad, but they are little escape artists. 

 

Dogs

Don’t leave goats and dogs together unattended. Even the sweetest lap dog, given the right circumstances, will attack and kill a goat, especially a kid. Remember, by nature, dogs are predators and goats are prey.

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Knowledge & Experience

We will freely give any information and knowledge that we have to a new owner to help you in raising and caring for your goat. We don't mind a phone call or text (336-453-3315) or email (WindDancerGoats@gmail.com) with your questions and we will make every effort to respond in a timely manner.  If you are interested in a farm visit, please schedule an appointment.